DMZ Tour | South Korea

There is a great deal of hype in the United States about North Korea and the threat they pose to America and her allies, South Korea in particular. You'd think by the news outlets in the states that South Koreans would be living in fear daily. However, if you spent some time in South Korea, you'd realize just how little of a concern the threat to the north really is. I believe one of the main reasons that South Koreans aren't nearly as concerned as the media would lead you to believe is due to military power and deterrence, largely including that of the United States.

We went on a tour of the DMZ in July and were able to see a firsthand account of the 2.5 miles that separate the two Koreas. Just in case you're not up to speed on what exactly the DMZ is, here's an excerpt pulled from Wikipedia that sums it up: 

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula. It is established by the provisions of the Korean Armistice Agreement to serve as a buffer zone between the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea). The demilitarized zone (DMZ) is a border barrier that divides the Korean Peninsula roughly in half. It was created by agreement between North Korea, China and the United Nations in 1953. 

When you tour the DMZ, you might find it odd how much of a tourist attraction this area really is. There are large tour buses parked everywhere, vendors selling snacks and beverages and public restrooms. We had several stops in our tour and we spent over half the day up there. I found it very interesting and highly recommend the tour for better understanding of the DMZ and the relationship between North and South Korea. We started the tour at Imjingak, a "resort" park located on the banks of the Imjin River in Paju. 

Peace Bell

The DMZ tour showcases many elements that exhibit just how much the South Koreans want peace with their sister to the north. You'll see them throughout this post. Imjingak has many statues and monuments to the Korean War, specifically.

Riddled with bullets, this train is a symbol of the Korean War and is located at Imjingak, our first stop on the DMZ Tour

Bridge in Imjingak over the Imjin River

Restaurants, cafes, a public restroom and tour buses at Imjingak

Mangbaedan, altar to Korean ancestors and families in the north left behind, read below

Mangbaedan

After 36 years of Japanese colonial era rule, our country was liberated on August 15, 1945, thanks to the sacrifices of service personnel who fought for the nation's independence and for an end to the Second World War. Before celebration could break out, however, Korea was arbitrarily divided into north and south according to a unilateral decision on the part of larger powers, regardless of the desire of our people. Korea, which had been a unified nation for thousands of years, was faced with the division of Korea into north and south. Mangbaedan is a permanent alter established by the government at a cost of 500 million won (Supervision by the Ministry of Home Affairs - 5 North Korean Provinces, execution: Paju Country Office), at Imjingak, overlooking the lands of North Korea. Five million people left their home in the north, where they had lived for generations, to avoid the Soviet army and the North Korea Communist Party's persecution and brutalities. The refugees built a temporary altar at Imjingak on every Chuseok (Korea Thanks giving day), held an event to honor their ancestor and parents who had been left behind in North Korea, and longed for a permanent altar. In terms of scale and form, the censer and altar of the country, and prayers for the welfare of those in North Korea. The characteristics of the historical remains, institutions and customs, and mountains and streams of the 5 North Korean Provinces, and non-reclaimed area, Gyeonggi and Gangwon were carved in seven granite stone-folding screens around the pagoda to ease the homesickness of the refugees. 

Ribbons with words of peace and hope attached to a barbed wire fence

Unification Park

Another vendor at Imjingak, you'll surely not go thirsty here

Click here for info on Imjingak at VisitKorea

Our next stop in the tour was the Third Tunnel, a long descent into the ground, by either train or walking. We walked/hiked it. If you're claustrophobic or not physically active, I don't recommend going by foot. Pulled from VistKorea:

The 3rd Tunnel was discovered in 1978 by South Korean forces. It spans over 1,635m in length, 2m in width, and 2m in height and is located 52km from Seoul. It is estimated that approximately 30,000 soldiers could move through the tunnel per hour. The scale is similar to the 2nd Tunnel, but it was thought to be more threatening as an invasion tool than the 1st and 2nd Tunnels. Located only 4km away from Imjingak toward the southwest and 3.5km from the Tongilchon area, it is accessible by car in about 45 minutes.

It is suspected that other tunnels exist that have yet to be found. Photography is forebidden in the tunnel, however you can take photos in the lobby, including a photo op with Korean soldier statues.

The entrance to the third tunnel by foot, hard hats are required, as the ceiling does get pretty low. I hit my head (with a helmet on) several times.

 Following the Third Tunnel, we stopped at Dora Observatory where you can look across the DMZ into North Korea. Unfortunately, it was incredibly foggy on the day we went, so visibility was low.

I'll take a moment right here to give a shout out to our tour guide. He did a really great job and we could tell that he really cared and was very knowledgeable about the places we visited. Our tour was through the air base we were stationed at, but tours are available to the public through other organizations. You can find these in a quick online search, so I won't point out any specifically because I cannot vouch for the credibility of any one tour company. 

This was our stop at Dorasan station. This was a sad place to me. Dorasan station is the 'last' stop in South Korea (read below), with tracks leading into North Korea. You'll see them in the photos below. The hope is that one day the train will be able to run back and forth across the border, uniting the two countries. We each received a stamped novelty ticket, which was kind of cool.

Dorasan Station : Starting Point of the Transcontinental Railroad

Following the June 15, 2000, South-North Joint Declaration made by two Koreas, both agreed to connect the Gyeongui Railroad Line on July 31 the same year. Under the military control, the barbed wire and mines were removed, and Dorasan station was opened on April 11, 2002. Finally South and North Korea connected the Gyeongui Railroad Line on June 14, 2003 at the Military Demarcation Line in the DMZ.

Dorasan station is located 56km away from Seoul station in South Korea, 17km from Gaeseong station and 205km from Pyeongyang station in North Korea. The roof to he building shows a figure of clasped hands using a Taegeuk pattern as an expression of sincere wishes that Dorasan station will play a decisive role in linking South and North Korea.

Dorasan station became well Known at home and abroad as a place in an aspiration for the reunification of the Korea Peninsula and world peace. So many Kinds of peace events have been held here. This is the station that drew the world attention when President Kim Dae Jung and US President Bush visited this place on February 20, 2002.

Now this Dorasan station is the first station toward the North, not the last station from the South. When the Trans Korean Railway (TKR) extended to the Trans Siberian Railway (TSR) and the Trans Chinese Railway (TCR), South Korea promises to emerge as a distribution hub in Northeast Asia, and Dorasan station as the gateway toward Eurasia in the near future. 

The unification platform was designed as the theme of Security Tourism to sublimate the pain of tragic national division to peaceful unification on the occasion of the 70th Anniversary of National Liberation Day, and was established at Dorasan Station located on inter-Korean border on 14th October 2015.

We're told this is a piece of the Berlin Wall.

Map of the Trans Eurasian Railway Network

(left) Training facing toward North Korea, (right) Tracks toward North Korea

Inside Dorasan station, it's very clean and empty, aside from the tourists

Our final and most interesting stop was the Joint Security Area (JSA), where the well-known blue buildings are located where North and South Korean negotiations take place. This is a neutral zone between the two countries and we were led in a single file line into the buildings. You might recognize them from what you've seen in the media. It was very cool to actually get some time to check them out for ourselves. We had about three minutes to take photos inside the buildings before being shuffled back outside to the safety of South Korean soil. Special permission is required to tour this high security area.

(left) A Korean solider guards the door to North Korea at the JSA, (right) the table where negotiations take place

Our 'tour guide' is a US solider stationed at Camp Bonifas, the US Army camp located nearest the DMZ

Facing toward North Korea, the building in the back is property of North Korea. You can see a North Korean solider standing at its entrance. We were told this solder is nicknamed "Bob" because he moves or 'bobs' back and forth between the doors and pillars. 

A sprinkler system is installed on both sides of this area, hence the water on the ground. It was still a very hot and humid July day and I felt for the soldiers in uniform.

 They were pretty strict on when and where we could take pictures. It's hard to imagine this is every day life at the JSA. So much tension.

The souvenir shop at the JSA is very well stocked. We shared an ice cream cone here. There are also public restrooms available.

I cannot provide specific details for you here because tours, dates and times all vary immensely. I also cannot recommend a specific tour company to go through for a visit to the DMZ because we went through our military affiliation. Aside from that, I encourage you to ask any questions you might have about our visit.

I will note, when you go, please wear appropriate clothing without any offensive messages. You are representing yourself and your country of origin and people from all over the world will see you. I also recommend comfortable clothing and shoes, as well as a bit of won if you'd like some souvenirs or a drink and snack. Do your research and confirm all information with your tour guide of choice. Happy travels!