DMZ Tour | South Korea

There is a great deal of hype in the United States about North Korea and the threat they pose to America and her allies, South Korea in particular. You'd think by the news outlets in the states that South Koreans would be living in fear daily. However, if you spent some time in South Korea, you'd realize just how little of a concern the threat to the north really is. I believe one of the main reasons that South Koreans aren't nearly as concerned as the media would lead you to believe is due to military power and deterrence, largely including that of the United States.

We went on a tour of the DMZ in July and were able to see a firsthand account of the 2.5 miles that separate the two Koreas. Just in case you're not up to speed on what exactly the DMZ is, here's an excerpt pulled from Wikipedia that sums it up: 

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula. It is established by the provisions of the Korean Armistice Agreement to serve as a buffer zone between the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea). The demilitarized zone (DMZ) is a border barrier that divides the Korean Peninsula roughly in half. It was created by agreement between North Korea, China and the United Nations in 1953. 

When you tour the DMZ, you might find it odd how much of a tourist attraction this area really is. There are large tour buses parked everywhere, vendors selling snacks and beverages and public restrooms. We had several stops in our tour and we spent over half the day up there. I found it very interesting and highly recommend the tour for better understanding of the DMZ and the relationship between North and South Korea. We started the tour at Imjingak, a "resort" park located on the banks of the Imjin River in Paju. 

Peace Bell

The DMZ tour showcases many elements that exhibit just how much the South Koreans want peace with their sister to the north. You'll see them throughout this post. Imjingak has many statues and monuments to the Korean War, specifically.

Riddled with bullets, this train is a symbol of the Korean War and is located at Imjingak, our first stop on the DMZ Tour

Bridge in Imjingak over the Imjin River

Restaurants, cafes, a public restroom and tour buses at Imjingak

Mangbaedan, altar to Korean ancestors and families in the north left behind, read below

Mangbaedan

After 36 years of Japanese colonial era rule, our country was liberated on August 15, 1945, thanks to the sacrifices of service personnel who fought for the nation's independence and for an end to the Second World War. Before celebration could break out, however, Korea was arbitrarily divided into north and south according to a unilateral decision on the part of larger powers, regardless of the desire of our people. Korea, which had been a unified nation for thousands of years, was faced with the division of Korea into north and south. Mangbaedan is a permanent alter established by the government at a cost of 500 million won (Supervision by the Ministry of Home Affairs - 5 North Korean Provinces, execution: Paju Country Office), at Imjingak, overlooking the lands of North Korea. Five million people left their home in the north, where they had lived for generations, to avoid the Soviet army and the North Korea Communist Party's persecution and brutalities. The refugees built a temporary altar at Imjingak on every Chuseok (Korea Thanks giving day), held an event to honor their ancestor and parents who had been left behind in North Korea, and longed for a permanent altar. In terms of scale and form, the censer and altar of the country, and prayers for the welfare of those in North Korea. The characteristics of the historical remains, institutions and customs, and mountains and streams of the 5 North Korean Provinces, and non-reclaimed area, Gyeonggi and Gangwon were carved in seven granite stone-folding screens around the pagoda to ease the homesickness of the refugees. 

Ribbons with words of peace and hope attached to a barbed wire fence

Unification Park

Another vendor at Imjingak, you'll surely not go thirsty here

Click here for info on Imjingak at VisitKorea

Our next stop in the tour was the Third Tunnel, a long descent into the ground, by either train or walking. We walked/hiked it. If you're claustrophobic or not physically active, I don't recommend going by foot. Pulled from VistKorea:

The 3rd Tunnel was discovered in 1978 by South Korean forces. It spans over 1,635m in length, 2m in width, and 2m in height and is located 52km from Seoul. It is estimated that approximately 30,000 soldiers could move through the tunnel per hour. The scale is similar to the 2nd Tunnel, but it was thought to be more threatening as an invasion tool than the 1st and 2nd Tunnels. Located only 4km away from Imjingak toward the southwest and 3.5km from the Tongilchon area, it is accessible by car in about 45 minutes.

It is suspected that other tunnels exist that have yet to be found. Photography is forebidden in the tunnel, however you can take photos in the lobby, including a photo op with Korean soldier statues.

The entrance to the third tunnel by foot, hard hats are required, as the ceiling does get pretty low. I hit my head (with a helmet on) several times.

 Following the Third Tunnel, we stopped at Dora Observatory where you can look across the DMZ into North Korea. Unfortunately, it was incredibly foggy on the day we went, so visibility was low.

I'll take a moment right here to give a shout out to our tour guide. He did a really great job and we could tell that he really cared and was very knowledgeable about the places we visited. Our tour was through the air base we were stationed at, but tours are available to the public through other organizations. You can find these in a quick online search, so I won't point out any specifically because I cannot vouch for the credibility of any one tour company. 

This was our stop at Dorasan station. This was a sad place to me. Dorasan station is the 'last' stop in South Korea (read below), with tracks leading into North Korea. You'll see them in the photos below. The hope is that one day the train will be able to run back and forth across the border, uniting the two countries. We each received a stamped novelty ticket, which was kind of cool.

Dorasan Station : Starting Point of the Transcontinental Railroad

Following the June 15, 2000, South-North Joint Declaration made by two Koreas, both agreed to connect the Gyeongui Railroad Line on July 31 the same year. Under the military control, the barbed wire and mines were removed, and Dorasan station was opened on April 11, 2002. Finally South and North Korea connected the Gyeongui Railroad Line on June 14, 2003 at the Military Demarcation Line in the DMZ.

Dorasan station is located 56km away from Seoul station in South Korea, 17km from Gaeseong station and 205km from Pyeongyang station in North Korea. The roof to he building shows a figure of clasped hands using a Taegeuk pattern as an expression of sincere wishes that Dorasan station will play a decisive role in linking South and North Korea.

Dorasan station became well Known at home and abroad as a place in an aspiration for the reunification of the Korea Peninsula and world peace. So many Kinds of peace events have been held here. This is the station that drew the world attention when President Kim Dae Jung and US President Bush visited this place on February 20, 2002.

Now this Dorasan station is the first station toward the North, not the last station from the South. When the Trans Korean Railway (TKR) extended to the Trans Siberian Railway (TSR) and the Trans Chinese Railway (TCR), South Korea promises to emerge as a distribution hub in Northeast Asia, and Dorasan station as the gateway toward Eurasia in the near future. 

The unification platform was designed as the theme of Security Tourism to sublimate the pain of tragic national division to peaceful unification on the occasion of the 70th Anniversary of National Liberation Day, and was established at Dorasan Station located on inter-Korean border on 14th October 2015.

We're told this is a piece of the Berlin Wall.

Map of the Trans Eurasian Railway Network

(left) Training facing toward North Korea, (right) Tracks toward North Korea

Inside Dorasan station, it's very clean and empty, aside from the tourists

Our final and most interesting stop was the Joint Security Area (JSA), where the well-known blue buildings are located where North and South Korean negotiations take place. This is a neutral zone between the two countries and we were led in a single file line into the buildings. You might recognize them from what you've seen in the media. It was very cool to actually get some time to check them out for ourselves. We had about three minutes to take photos inside the buildings before being shuffled back outside to the safety of South Korean soil. Special permission is required to tour this high security area.

(left) A Korean solider guards the door to North Korea at the JSA, (right) the table where negotiations take place

Our 'tour guide' is a US solider stationed at Camp Bonifas, the US Army camp located nearest the DMZ

Facing toward North Korea, the building in the back is property of North Korea. You can see a North Korean solider standing at its entrance. We were told this solder is nicknamed "Bob" because he moves or 'bobs' back and forth between the doors and pillars. 

A sprinkler system is installed on both sides of this area, hence the water on the ground. It was still a very hot and humid July day and I felt for the soldiers in uniform.

 They were pretty strict on when and where we could take pictures. It's hard to imagine this is every day life at the JSA. So much tension.

The souvenir shop at the JSA is very well stocked. We shared an ice cream cone here. There are also public restrooms available.

I cannot provide specific details for you here because tours, dates and times all vary immensely. I also cannot recommend a specific tour company to go through for a visit to the DMZ because we went through our military affiliation. Aside from that, I encourage you to ask any questions you might have about our visit.

I will note, when you go, please wear appropriate clothing without any offensive messages. You are representing yourself and your country of origin and people from all over the world will see you. I also recommend comfortable clothing and shoes, as well as a bit of won if you'd like some souvenirs or a drink and snack. Do your research and confirm all information with your tour guide of choice. Happy travels!

My Korea Packing List | Non-Command Sponsored in South Korea

This list has been a long time coming, hasn't it?!

We moved to South Korea because of my husbands career in the military. He received orders to South Korea for a short tour (one year) in March 2016 and he left the states in August 2016. I followed him to live off base in Pyeongtaek in early September 2016. We've been in South Korea for nearly a full year and I wanted to provide those going through a similar situation as I did an idea of what I brought with us, what I wish I'd packed, and what I found I didn't really need after being here through all four seasons.

Before I begin, here's a little background: We are here non-command sponsored, as in, I moved to South Korea on my own accord. My husband is technically here "unaccompanied" (the military did not pay to move my husband's dependents to his new duty station, i.e. me). We live off base in a Korean style apartment. We have access to on base facilities, including the base exchange (BX) and the commissary through an issued rations card.  Our HHG (household goods) coming to Korea had a weight limit of only 400lbs, so we had to be selective about what we included. Hopefully that helps give you an idea of our situation.

Here's a list of items I'm glad that we brought:

• cold weather gear - Korean winters are harsh
• rugs - carpet is very uncommon in Korea, hard tile can hurt your feet after awhile
• small bakeware - our oven/microwave is tiny, it measures about 17" in diameter
• art/craft supplies, selection here is somewhat limited - visit Dream Depot in Pyeongtaek, Amazon, or the BX
• bedding - pillows, sheet sets, comforter and duvet cover
• a variety of shoes, sandals, tennis shoes, boots - I'm a size 10, which is non-existent in Korea. Aside from the BX, I'm stuck with what I brought unless I order shoes off of Amazon without trying them on.
• undergarments for the year - Make sure you buy that year supply of underwear!
• electronics such as our Xbox and computers - We watch Netflix a lot because most channels here are in Korean. There are two news stations in English (CNN & BBC), as well as an English movie channel.
• plates and tableware - These are available at the Daiso and places like Homeplus or Emart, but if you have extra, might as well bring it. Less to buy once you're here. We'll probably sell ours before we leave since it was an extra set. It's mismatched, but it's only for a year.
• printed photos for our fridge - It's nice to have family photos and pictures of our two pups on display to see every day. 
• yoga mat/small exercise equipment such as a kettle bell or weights
• laundry baskets/hamper

Here's a list of items we didn't need to bring:

• an 11x13" cookie sheet or any large baking pans - The ovens aren't nearly that large so my cookie sheet doesn't fit
• so many blankets/quilts -  I seriously have enough for a family of six. What was I thinking?
• Western style semi-formal dresses - You might pack maybe one or two, but I packed way more than that. Live and learn.

Here is a list of items I wish we'd brought:

• holiday decor, especially Christmas - The BX has some selection, but it's no Hobby Lobby.
• small trash cans for bathrooms, bedrooms, kitchen, etc. - I use oatmeal containers for some of my trash cans. Trash cans are available here, but they're not really something you can resell for much. If you have them, bring them.
• throw pillows - These make a house more homey. Our bed has been pretty plain the whole year.
• more pants/shorts and clothing in general - The BX selection is so limited and Korean clothing just does not fit my western frame right. The tops are way too big and flow-y and there's no way I'd fit in the bottoms. 

So essentially, a lot of this stuff is available to buy here in South Korea, it's simply a matter of what you already have on hand and what you want to buy when you get here. We didn't see a point in buying stuff when we already had it. You can also order off of Amazon with a Prime membership. It ships free to APO addresses, so I highly recommend investing in that. If there's an item you can't find in the stores here, you can also use the Korean version of eBay, Gmarket. This site ships directly to your Korean address within a day or two. Hooray for online shopping!

Most of our HHGs are in storage in the states. We're looking forward to having that back in a couple of months! I'm told it's like Christmas when you get your stuff back, and I do believe it! I can't wait!

Finding An Apartment | Non-Command Sponsored in South Korea

This post is for the United States military member and his/her family stationed in South Korea who is  anticipating choosing an apartment off base/post. My experience is based on living just outside Osan Air Base for one year as a non-command sponsored (NCSP) dependent. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

When we first arrived in South Korea, I was sure of the kind of apartment I wanted. I'd done my research and had seen photos. I had an ideal image in my mind of what our place would look like.

I actually ended up choosing an apartment that was a bit more Western style than I'd expected. I remember thinking, "it just feels like home". Maybe it was the Ashley sofa sitting in the living room, or the view of the air base flight line where I could watch our A-10s land, or it could have been the IKEA light fixture above the dining room table that was a familiar sight among all the new. Whatever it was, after a year of living here, I can easily say I'm happy with our choice. I'd like to outline the process and give you a couple of tips that you might find helpful when selecting a place to live off base here in South Korea.

I arrived in South Korea and wanted to get started as soon as possible. But before we could start looking, we were required to go to a short housing brief on base to understand the process. This was easy to schedule and the briefs take place multiple times a week, so you shouldn't have a problem getting in for an appointment. The military member can contact the housing office to find out when the next appointment is.

Before moving to Korea, I had been told the process moved very quickly and I was eager to find us a place to live that we could call our own. There are a plethora of realtor offices right outside Osan Air Base and I had a couple of recommended realtors on my list. They were easy to walk to from the main gate. I quite literally walked into their office, told them my requirements for an apartment, and off we went.

Climbing into a Korean's vehicle and being swept into the busy flow of crazy traffic was not something my mother said I could do. Yet here I was, climbing into a stranger's car and letting them take me wherever they pleased. That day I approached four realtors who all took me to multiple homes/apartments in the local area. It was a lot of looking in one day and honestly quite exhausting in the September heat! I also took photos of the properties to show my husband so we could decide on a place as soon as possible and get moved in.

So here were my preferences for an apartment. You might find yourself adding a couple of these to your list as well.

- Two bedroom apartment

- < 10 minutes walking/biking distance from base

- Laundry in unit, preferably separate washer/dryer

- Newer, clean, no smoke smell

- Furnished (We didn't have any furniture as NCSP.)

- 110V outlets

- Lots of natural light

- Quality over quantity, plus a smaller place meant less square footage to heat and cool

Here are items that don't typically come in an apartment, but that you may want to negotiate for.

- A/C in every room - we had one in the bedroom and main living area, which was fine for our smaller apartment
- Dehumidifier - we used one in the main living area, which seemed to be enough for us. Ours cost about 125,000₩.
- Air purifier - I highly recommend that you invest in one of these! We had one the last six months we were in Korea and it really helped with stuffy noses and congestion. South Korea's air quality can get pretty ugly. Ours cost about 180,000₩.
- Multiple transformers - these vary in size. Also be aware of where the outlets are in the apartment. We had one in the kitchen right above the stove and one behind the television for our entire living area. Not terribly convenient!
- dishwasher - my husband cannot wait to get back to the land of dishwashers and garbage disposals (neither can I, for that matter!). If you haven't yet, check out my Korean trash system post for more info on disposing of your trash and food waste correctly.
- cable and internet
- maintenance fee included in your rent

We chose Emerald Forest apartments which sits between the SED ("the ville") and the 4/9 market. If you're familiar with the area, you'll know where I'm referring to. Our choice of an apartment didn't have all of our listed preferences, but was the best fit for our needs. You'll have to make that decision for yourself. Once we'd decided on a place, we signed a lease provided by the housing office on base. The process for renting to NCSP families isn't new to the realtors or the housing office, so it's all pretty cut and dry.

You'll need one months rent as deposit, plus your first months rent. Often, families don't have this kind of money up front. That's okay. Our monthly rent was 1,466,000 ₩ for a small but brand new three bedroom, two bath apartment located about eight minutes walking distance from the main gate. The finance office will grant you a 0% interest loan for your deposit amount that you'll have to pay off upon move out. No big deal. As long as you get your deposit back, everything should even out.

After payments were made and the lease was signed, we were able to move in immediately. Our realtor (his name was Kenny with American Realty, his office is located right by the "Triangle of Death") came to the apartment to give us a run down of our Korean appliances and television. Almost all of the buttons and labels were in Korean, so the Google Translate app was a good friend. Much of figuring everything out was trial and error over the next couple of weeks.

Our utilities bills were delivered to our mailbox at the apartment. We took those in with us at the same time we went into the realtors office to pay our rent every month. You can also sign up for GI Bill Pay, a service provided to US military service members. If you're at Osan, you can sign up for this at the same building the USO is in (community center). Once set up, GI Bill Pay will take care of all of your bills for you. We didn't use this service because there is a small fee. We also were able to make a little more on the exchange rate from USD to KRW by taking out cash for rent at the ATM on base (no fees!) and exchanging it off base to Korean won. Once you do this process once or twice, you'll get used to it. It IS a hassle, I won't deny that, but we did adapt after awhile.

Pro tip: Keep in mind how much your bank allows you to withdraw in cash every day. Ours had a limit so we had to withdraw cash over a period of several days. Also, you may want to download an exchange rate app such as XE Currency. I like this particular app because you can see the rate immediately upon opening and you can also view charts that will tell you the exchange rate history from one day to as far back as ten years. We also used this app on our trip to Thailand. Super user friendly and free!

If we ever had issues at the apartment, (we did have mold, a common problem in Korea, and some caulking that needed done), our POC was our realtor Kenny who coordinated with the building manager and maintenance guy. I'm really not sure how much English either of them spoke, so Kenny acted as a translator. Kenny, combined with Google translate, got the job done. (However, I can't say communication wasn't difficult.)

Below are the images from our apartment at Emerald Forest when I was initially looking. 

Later, our realtor also provided a coffee table in the living room. It sat about a foot off the ground, but hey! It worked.

The view from our small balcony.

We also got two small night stands from our realtor for by the bed.

No shower curtain. Weird, right?

Our apartment building. Thirteen floors, which is not many by Korea standards.

Like I said before, please let me know if you have any questions. Being NCSP in Korea isn't easy, but I believe keeping our families together is so important and that makes it all worth it.